Director's interview Vol,6
“crinkle crinkle crinkle meets Steiff Schulte and Harris Tweed”

The theme of this season is "HIBERNATION DRESSING - clothing for hibernation -". There are items that evoke nostalgia and emotion, such as a fur coat made from fabric by Steiffschulte of Germany and a jacket made from Harris Tweed, a traditional material from the northwest islands of Scotland. We interviewed brand director Hirokazu Kanehara about the thoughts and feelings behind the materials used in this collection and the attention to design.

— First, please tell us about the theme of this collection.

Over the past few years, I have felt saddened by the changes in the seasons due to the effects of global warming, but at the same time, I have also begun to want to enjoy winter more as fashion. While many of the changes in not only the climate but also the natural environment are ultimately caused by human ego in the pursuit of convenience through mass production and mass consumption, I thought that by consciously regaining the seasons, many things might turn out in a slightly better direction, and so I chose a theme that resonates with these feelings.

— The visuals seem to evoke the warmth of winter and a nostalgic atmosphere.

With the theme of facing once again the things we loved, I used images that evoke the atmosphere of winter, such as the teddy bears we always carried around as children, our favorite sheets, hand-knitted items, etc. Also, by deliberately using materials such as natural animal fibers, I felt like I wanted to take a moment to reflect on this rapidly evolving era, so I chose fur used to make teddy bears and Harris Tweed, a distinctive fabric that has been made without putting any strain on animals, for this collection.

— Could you tell us more about each fabric?

The fur is made of 100% mohair fabric made from natural Angora wool, which has long been used by the German company Steiff Schulte for stuffed animals such as teddy bears. The reason it's called fake is that the sheep's skin is not removed, but rather the long wool is sheared and woven into a pile on a cotton base. Currently, most fake fur is made from synthetic fibers derived from petroleum, but I was attracted to this fur because it is 100% natural fiber derived from animals.

— This time it's used boldly all over the clothes.

We would love for everyone to try out this garment, which feels like being hugged by a teddy bear. Steiff Japan cooperated with us in the look shoot, and Steiff Schulte teddy bears and stuffed animals are in the shots, so please take a look.

— Please tell us about Harris Tweed.

Harris Tweed is a traditional fabric made entirely on the island, using only natural virgin wool from sheep raised in the northwestern islands of Scotland. Its defining feature is its purity. Generally, woolen fabrics like tweed contain nylon to increase their strength, but what attracted me to Harris Tweed is that it uses only virgin wool without any other ingredients. You can enjoy the texture that changes over time, and I think it's fun to let it grow in the same way as vintage fabrics or denim.

— Because it's a historic fabric, it gives off a vintage-like impression.

Some customers may not be very attracted to it, as they may perceive it as nostalgia. Fashion changes in a good way to match lifestyles and the times. New functional materials are constantly being developed. However, I personally have been involved with textiles for many years, and my feelings and affection for each fabric, and above all, they were essential to the theme of this collection.

— Using fabrics that have been loved for a long time, to create items that will continue to be loved for a long time to come. That's a consistent theme.

There are many fabrics made using these traditional techniques in Japan, such as Nishijin-ori and excellent denim from Okayama. These fabrics are highly rare and expensive, so there are still challenges for Japanese manufacturers to handle them, but recently overseas fashion houses such as Chanel and Hermes have been supporting the preservation of these excellent techniques. I hope that one day we too can become a brand originating from Japan, using such wonderful domestic fabrics.

— Your collection centered around these two fabrics was completed based on your unique passion.

That's right. Both have a history of over 100 years, and it's wonderful that they remain to this day. I'm personally very happy that I was able to give form to them through my own brand.

— Please tell us what you focused on when incorporating these materials into clothing designs.

I thought it would be boring to just make it look vintage, so I included bloomer-like shorts and bikini tops and miniskirts that can be layered to reflect my own current mood and style.

— The Harris Tweed jacket looks authentic at first glance. Could you tell us about the updated aspects?

Since it is Harris Tweed, I wanted to maintain its authenticity, so I deliberately chose a commonly used pattern rather than a special order. The three buttons on the back are the key feature. When you remove them, it becomes like a tail, allowing you to enjoy the change in design. Harris Tweed was originally used as jackets for fishermen, and many of the vintage pieces on the market are oversized and boxy. It's cute to see women wearing these men's-like jackets loosely, but this time I deliberately made it with a just-right silhouette, which is rare for us. I also paid attention to small details, such as placing the front buttons low.

— Is there a style you'd recommend?

Both items go well with denim, so I recommend layering them with denim pants. However, the next fashion trend is coming, so I hope you'll enjoy them more freely and however you like. I'm looking forward to seeing how you wear them.

— Finally, please give a message to customers who are looking forward to the latest collection.

I would be happy if wearing these clothes would give you simple feelings of warmth, comfort, and gentleness. There are some clothes that are so cute you want to cherish them even if they are just hanging in your home. I would be especially happy if these items made with Steiff Schulte fabrics could give you those feelings. After all, you are wrapped in a teddy bear.

— Just seeing yourself wearing it makes you feel good, right?

Some people may pass by without even noticing the fabric, but I hope that the wearer will know its value and feel proud that "this is actually a teddy bear." Rather than forcing it on others, if you just say "Actually...", it will lead to a conversation like "Wow! I want to try it on! Let me touch it!" It would be nice if that's how things started to become more fun.

Brand director
Hirokazu Kinbara

After working for many years in planning and sales at a textile design company, she was in charge of collections, maison brands and select shops. Currently, she manages a textile design team at an apparel company, while also forecasting trends and acting as a brand director and designer.

Instagram: @kin.summer.summer.

Edit & Text by Mikiko Ichitani