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Director's interview Vol,1 "Thoughts put into making clothes”

Director's interview Vol,1 "Thoughts put into making clothes"

February 27th, 2023

Interview with Director Kinbara's thoughts on making crinklecrinklecrinkle clothes.

“crinkle crinkle crinkle” just debuted in spring/summer 2023. We interviewed Hirokazu Kanehara, the brand director, about the thoughts behind creating the new brand's clothing, based on the concept of ``expressing the feelings you feel at the moment, honestly and freely, as if by magic.''

—First of all, please tell us what led you to launch your brand.

Having worked in textile design for many years, knowledge of fabrics and analysis of maisons are my strengths. An OEM & ODM company that had been watching this kind of work told me for a couple of years that it would be great if we could do something with it. As everyone's work styles and mindsets have changed little by little due to the coronavirus pandemic, we thought, ``Let's start a brand now.'' I had no experience designing clothes or being a pattern maker, but I loved clothes, looking at them, and wearing them. Making clothes was something I wanted to do someday, and the experience of knowing fabrics gave me confidence. In this way, various ``timing'' and ``experience points'' matched up perfectly, and that's how we started the brand.

 

 

—Do you have a brand concept?

I don't have a particularly elaborate concept, but I just want to deliver what I feel at that moment, with a lot of passion. Fashion is a fluid thing, so I feel like if I get too tied down to fixed ideas, I'll be stuck in a spell that I won't be able to break out of... Even when I was working at a textile design company, I worked in a style where I passionately presented what I thought was better than what someone else wanted and got it hired. Thankfully, there were many people who said to me, ``Kanehara-san's ability to convey his thoughts made me feel comfortable working there.'' I create my clothes with the hope that the same passion and love I felt at that time will be conveyed to the person receiving the clothes.

—What is the origin of the brand name “crinkle crinkle crinkle”?

crinkle = meaning "wrinkle". The process of creating a natural wrinkled look is called "crinkle processing" and is a technique often seen on Indian products. I want it to be something that doesn't require ironing, is easy to handle, and even if it gets wrinkled, it's still adorable. Using natural materials gives it a craft feel, so I think people can casually enjoy even highly designed items.

I also listed the three words "crinkle" because it's rhythmic and makes me feel happy, and it's interesting that I don't know what the brand name is. There aren't many people who can say the correct answer in one go (lol). Many people make the mistake of saying "Twinkle Twinkle Twinkle", but it has that kind of fantasy sound to it. Wearing clothes makes me feel cute, and clothes make things happen that I can't do when I'm naked. I think that's fantasy. It also means that it would be good if magic could be applied like a spell.

 

 

—Where do you get your inspiration for making things?

I always look at the Maison's creations, and I value how people around the world express themselves and how I feel when I see them. On the other hand, I also like vintage, used clothing, and handcrafts. Even if I get inspiration from a maison, I end up bringing in unique elements from vintage and used clothing, and it ends up being my own interpretation of something completely different.

—Please tell us about your first collection.

This first collection was made entirely in India. This 3D embroidery, which is the brand's icon, may be an idea that is not needed in this day and age, like the history of fashion and the maison's haute couture, in a world where "safety, security, ease, and being able to go anywhere" are desired. unknown. Although the evolution of functionality is important, I believe that what should be enjoyed in fashion is haute couture. This three-dimensional embroidery that looks like blooming flowers is the perfect technique. However, rather than hand-sewing it which would be expensive, I made it with a fabric that is more realistic and wearable. I would like to continue working with different materials and shapes in the future.

The fringes that are unique to India are also typical. The same 100% cotton fabric as the body is used on the bias, and the loops are sewn by hand and strings are attached to each piece. I love the Maison's creations, as well as vintage and second-hand clothing, but I absolutely love suede fringe. But I wanted something lighter, washable, and easier to wear than suede, so I decided to make it out of cotton. It would be easy to just apply fringe tape, but I was particular about making it with the same fabric and color, like suede.

 

 

—The jacket that Mr. Kanehara is wearing today is also from “crinkle crinkle crinkle,” right?
I think it's a women's brand, but it looks great on men too.

The floral pattern on this jacket is based on a drawing drawn by a design team at an Italian workshop in the early 1960s. I have a textile design that I bought from an old document that doesn't exist today, so I converted it into a digital version and created an original print by changing the placement, size, and adding some parts. I feel like mixing analog and digital right now.

And about men wearing women's clothes. There is certainly diversity when it comes to gender and sexuality, and while there used to be few clothes that men could wear, now there are more unisex clothes. However, I think we should distinguish between the unique body types of women and men. The pattern making is also different, and clothes that suit each gender are ideal. That's why it's better not to call it ``unisex,'' but rather to have a ``gender mix,'' where men wear women's clothes. That sense of discomfort is interesting. Even at exhibitions, men bought see-through pants. I would like to do men's clothing for "crinkle crinkle crinkle" someday.

—How would you like people to wear “crinkle crinkle crinkle” clothes?

I don't have anything particular to say about how to wear it; I just want people to enjoy their day in it. As my good friend Shito Rei once said, "It's not about what you wear, it's about how you wear it," and that's exactly what I said! In fact, I like being shown styling that I had never imagined.

Brand Director
Hirokazu Kinbara

For many years, worked in planning and sales at a textile design company, in charge of collections, maison brands, and select shops. Currently, she is running a textile design team at an apparel company while also forecasting trends and serving as a brand director and designer.

- Instagram: @kin.summer.summer.

photographer/Katsuya Nagata (aosora)
Edit&Text/Taeko Higashihara

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